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SIR SAMUEL WHITE BAKER
CYPRUS AS I SAW IT IN 1879
page 127

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and of the richly-wooded slopes both north and sputh, cut by deep and dark water-riven gorges, with whit cliffs which descended to the shore. Villages an snow-white churches lay beneath in all directions, and the crops had a far more favourable appearance than those of the Messaria, as this portion of the countr had experienced a superior rainfall. It is much to be regretted that the total absence o; roads excludes this district from general communication. W e were struck by the fantastic scenery of de ravines, rocks covered with evergreens of varyin colours, and handsome caroub-trees which would have ornamented an English park ; mulberry-trees were very numerous, but at this season they were barren of leaves ; the only want lay in the absence of oranges and lemons, which the priest assured me would not thrive in this locality. For the last two months I had cordially detested Cyprus, but I was now converted to a belief that some portions of the country were thoroughly enjoyable, provided that a traveller could be contented with rough fare and be accustomed to the happy independence of a camp-life with a good tent and hardy servants. The temperature was a little too low for out-door existence, as it averaged 480 at 7 A.M. and 54° at 3 P.M., which is the hottest hour of the day ; but we were all well, and free from colds ; the servants had plenty of warm blankets, and the false floor that I had arranged added greatly to their comfort when camping upon the sodden ground. I had become convinced that " the man of ability " Theodori had deceived me, and that it would be impossible for the two-wheeled carts, or any other conveyance, to travel through this country. Our last two marches had proved that not only would the delay

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